Back to Bulrush: An Early Summer Menu

After our amazing fine dining experience at St. Louis’ Bulrush a few months ago, we’ve been itching to see what the next season’s menu might hold. I learned from the chef that there’s no season-specific menu–dishes change all the time based on which ingredients are available locally.

The meal started with a touch of sweet, pairing gelatin with some crushed ice and hazelnuts. I like these types of light dishes to start the meal.

The next dish featured a warm goat cheese cake next to a cold turnip. The meal featured a lot of hot-next-to-cold, which worked beautifully. The goat chees mouse may have been my favorite bite of the meal.

The next dish featured a grilled turnip sticky rice cake that was so delicious. I liked the idea of the cucumber next to it, but I wish it was cut up for us–it was a bit slippery to navigate.

This next dish takes the award for “most delicious dish I wouldn’t have expected to taste so good.” It’s a warm piece of beet rye bread–super soft–with a smoked walleye fish spread on top. I would eat this as a side dish or sandwich at any time.

The fifth of seven courses was the one dish they had to change a bit to make it pescatarian, and I honestly wouldn’t have it any other way (the alternative was lamp). Chef Rob prepared a pecan “meatball” that was so warm and delicious, especially when combined with the garlic ricotta.

Even though we were starting to get full, the entree is only now arriving! This is a steamed catfish with an absolutely delicious Ozark chili crisp on top.

The meal ended with the perfect-sized dessert, a roasted rhubarb vinegar ice cream with an almond mouse. The almond mouse blew my mind–it was SO GOOD, and it countered the slight tartness of the rhubarb.

Overall, the meal and the experience was amazing yet again. I look forward to seeing what Chef Rob creates in the fall.

Have you tasted anything delicious recently?

5 thoughts on “Back to Bulrush: An Early Summer Menu”

  1. A restaurant where I live does something similar to the experience you describe here – a seasonal menu with small dishes paired together and produced with fresh, local ingredients. My wife and I visit a couple of times a year, usually for special occassions like birthdays and our wedding anniversary. It really is such a treat; price prohibitive but worth it. Last time we went we had a delicious apple granita in one course and another dish had some monkfish which was also great.

  2. How timely – in your previous Bulrush post I commented that my wife and I have wanted to try Vicia in town. We celebrated our anniversary with dinner there last night, and it was just wonderful. Vicia has created a simple, elegant, unpretentious environment to enjoy small plates of Snacks, Entrees, and Deserts. Their spring 2023 menu is bursting with fresh herbs, pesto, greens, all very fresh and all profound in their simplicity. My favorite plate was their naked vegetable (apparently every season has one): two French Breakfast Radishes served over a schmear of pesto made from the leftover leaves from their carrots/celery/etc. I appreciated the way they used every bit of the vegetable, and I really loved how vegetable-forward the entire meal was. In a world that commonly associates fine dining with a perfectly sous-vided Filet Mignon or other beef, Vicia has leaned into using what’s available, ethical, and nearby – sounds similar to Bulrush’s approach. The advice we received before digging into our first course was “You do have utensils, though we encourage you to use your hands as much as possible.” How great is that?!

    • That’s awesome! I’ve only been to Vicia a few times, and every time I had a great experience. This is a good reminder to revisit. Thanks!


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